Beyond saint-tropez: the var coast’s untouched riviera charm
Forget the choked beaches and exorbitant prices of the classic French Riviera. Venture west to the Var coast – past Saint-Tropez’s gilded cage – and discover a slice of authentic Riviera life, blissfully shielded from the crowds.
A different riviera: infrastructure-free and naturally rich
The French Riviera, as most understand it, is a narrow strip of the Alpes-Maritimes, a compact, bustling hub centered on Nice, Cannes, and Antibes. It’s a machine built for tourism, funneling travelers with its airport and railway system. The Var coast, in stark contrast, lacks this infrastructure. Toulon’s airport offers fewer international routes, and the railway abandons the coastline here, retreating inland. Instead, it embraces a quieter, more indulgent rhythm.
Nature’s embrace: a landscape untouched
What the Var coast lacks in glitz, it more than makes up for in natural beauty. From the Port-Cros National Park and the rust-red Estérel ridges to the tranquil Maures massif and the shimmering Îles d’Or, the region is a tapestry of protected landscapes. You’ll find vineyards spilling down to the coast, producing some of France’s most underrated wine – a testament to the region’s restrained approach to tourism.
New hotels, old souls: a moment on the horizon
A new wave of design-forward hotels, like Zannier Île de Bendor, are emerging, alongside no-frills seaside villages. The Var is poised for a period of considerable growth, capitalizing on its warmer weather and unique microclimates. With a potential of 93 rooms, the island boasts several restaurants and bars, a wellness center, artisan ateliers, two pools, a sandy beach, and cliffside access to the sea.
Exploring the var: key stops
Don’t miss a visit to Sanary-sur-Mer, the birthplace of scuba diving, where Jacques Cousteau conducted his pioneering experiments. Explore the Musée Frédéric Dumas to delve into this fascinating history. A short drive east leads to Hyères, a town that once attracted artists and royalty with its exceptional microclimate and Belle Époque villas. Further still, the Giens Peninsula offers hiking trails, botanical gardens, and the captivating Château Noir, a hidden gem with a rich history.
A taste of provence: local flavors
Sample Mourvèdre-driven reds at Port-side terraces in Bandol, or indulge in a market day in Sanary-sur-Mer, overflowing with fresh seafood, olives, tapenade, and local produce. A visit to Domaine de l’Île and Domaine Malherbe promises a tasting of the region’s renowned rosés and whites. Finally, a day trip to Porquerolles, accessible by ferry, reveals secluded coves, pine forests, and the unique charm of the Îles d’Or.
A final note
The Var coast isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience. It’s a reminder that the most valuable treasures are often found off the beaten path, where nature, culture, and tradition intertwine to create a truly unforgettable escape.