Runway regression: size inclusivity vanishes as thinness returns
Three years after Vogue Business began tracking size diversity on the runway, the data paints a stark and unsettling picture: progress isn’t just stalled, it’s reversed. The industry, seemingly swayed by a confluence of cultural shifts and economic pressures, is retreating to a narrow ideal of thinness, leaving a vast majority of consumers – and a growing number of designers – feeling increasingly alienated.
The numbers don't lie: a three-year decline
Our Size Inclusivity report, launched with the optimistic hope of holding the fashion industry accountable, initially sparked cautious optimism. We envisioned a gradual move towards inclusivity, even incremental steps recognized and rewarded. But the latest figures reveal a troubling trend. The proportion of straight-size (US 0-4) models has peaked this season, now dominating 97.6% of runway appearances – a two-percentage-point increase over seven seasons. Simultaneously, representation for mid-size (US 6-12) models has plummeted from 3.8% to a dismal 2.1%, while plus-size (US 14+) representation has been slashed in half, falling from 0.6% to a mere 0.3%.
The fleeting moments of progress seen in Spring/Summer 2024 and 2025—often limited to stretchy dresses suitable for a wider range of sizes—now appear as anomalies within a broader pattern of regression. The reality is that the fashion world, once tentatively exploring inclusivity, seems to have abandoned the experiment.
Beyond the runway: a culture shift
The shift isn't solely about aesthetics. A complex web of factors—the rise of conservative attitudes, the surge in GLP-1 medications impacting body size, and the increasingly pervasive “lookmaxxing” trend—have created an environment where extreme thinness is not only accepted but actively pursued. Gasps of disbelief are becoming commonplace as exceptionally thin models parade down runways, and media coverage following award ceremonies now focuses more on skeletal frames than on the garments themselves. The desperation to conform is palpable.
What’s more concerning is the disconnect between brands’ stated intentions and their actions. We’ve encountered countless instances of tokenism—a single mid-size or plus-size model sprinkled amongst a sea of straight sizes, only for brands to fail to produce clothing that actually fits those sizes. Even when larger sizes are available, they're often relegated to the back of stores, creating a sense of invisibility for plus-size consumers.
As a mid-size woman (US 6-8) myself, I recognize my relative privilege within this landscape. The average American woman wears a size 16-18, placing the majority in the plus-size category. Yet, even I feel the subtle pressure to shrink, to conform to an increasingly unattainable ideal. The message is clear: regardless of where you fall on the sizing scale, thinness is the implicitly preferred standard.
The consumer speaks: pressure and frustration
Our recent survey of nearly 700 consumers underscores the depth of the problem. Almost half (48%) report feeling pressure to lose weight, with 63% citing sizing challenges as the primary source of that pressure, dwarfing the impact of runway shows (36%). This isn’t a superficial concern; it's a fundamental barrier to feeling represented and seen within the fashion world.
Abi Marvel, a content creator dedicated to showcasing plus-size representation in luxury fashion, is doing crucial on-the-ground work. Her “Plus-Size and Passing” series on Instagram demonstrates that while runway representation is lacking, many brands do offer larger sizes—they’re just often hidden or unavailable.
My visit to Bond Street revealed a stark contrast between online sizing and in-store reality. One luxury label’s website claims to offer sizes up to a US 20, yet the flagship store stocked only up to a US 12. The sales assistant conveniently offered special orders, a tactic often employed to appease customers after the runway frenzy has subsided.
A continuing commitment
Despite the disheartening findings, Vogue Business remains committed to tracking and illuminating this crucial issue. We will continue to refine our data and challenge the industry to do better. It's clear that our report, and the efforts of advocates like Abi Marvel, can only go so far. The onus is on brands to move beyond tokenism and prioritize genuine inclusivity, not just on the runway, but throughout their entire business – from design to production to retail. The future of fashion depends on it.