Luxury fashion's size problem: visibility doesn't equal access

The runway glittered this season, but a deeper look reveals a persistent and troubling reality: luxury fashion's embrace of diverse models remains largely performative. While Balenciaga and Givenchy offered fleeting glimpses of inclusivity, the numbers paint a starkly different picture, raising questions about genuine commitment versus fleeting trend chasing.

The numbers don't lie: a persistent gap

Vogue Business’ meticulous analysis of Fall/Winter 2026 collections reveals a depressing status quo. Of 7,817 looks presented across 182 shows, a mere 0.3% featured plus-size models (US 14+). This isn't just a slight dip; it represents a three-year low since Vogue Business began tracking size inclusivity. Straight-size looks dominated, accounting for 97.6%, with mid-size models (US 6-12) comprising a paltry 2.1%. The decline from last season—when plus-size representation stood at 0.9%—is a particularly worrying sign.

The disconnect is evident across major fashion capitals. New York lagged slightly, with 97.7% straight-size, while Milan’s numbers were even more concerning: 97.3% straight-size, 0.1% plus-size. Paris fared worst, with a staggering 99.5% of looks in the straight-size range. London, predictably, offered the most inclusivity, but even there, representation has dwindled since last season.

Casting director Chloe Rosolek’s assessment cuts to the chase: “The lack of size inclusivity is from the brand side — there are ample curve women who are ready to walk.” Tiffany Hsu, Mytheresa’s chief buying officer, echoes this sentiment, pointing to the critical role brands play in determining wholesale availability: “The primary limitation remains the size ranges that brands make available to wholesale partners.”

Beyond the runway: the retail reality

The issue isn’t merely about showcasing diversity on the catwalk; it’s about translating that visibility into accessible clothing. A recent Vogue Business survey revealed that nearly half (48%) of consumers feel pressured to lose weight to feel fashionable, with 63% citing sizing challenges as a primary driver of this pressure. The problem is particularly acute in luxury brands, where 27% of plus-size respondents report difficulty finding their size.

Christian Siriano, a brand that actively champions inclusivity, put it bluntly: “You can’t celebrate diverse bodies on the runway and then not make the clothes for them. That doesn’t make sense to me.” The disconnect is increasingly visible to consumers, as influencer Remi Bader has pointed out: “I would go to shows and it was so exciting to me that there would be plus-size models on the runway, and then people would be commenting on my TikToks saying, ‘Remi, I can’t even buy this stuff.’”

The business case for inclusivity: it's not just about doing good

The argument that extended sizing is commercially unviable is increasingly outdated. Hsu notes a “meaningful opportunity” for brands to expand their size ranges, with extended sizes often selling through quickly due to limited supply rather than lack of demand. Ester Manas, a Paris-based inclusive label, sees 60-70% of its e-commerce customers in plus sizes, demonstrating the potential for significant revenue gains.

But it requires more than just a few extra sizes. Brands must invest in fit, grading, and marketing, and create a “universe around being transparent about the sizing,” as Delepierre of Ester Manas suggests. Vitto emphasizes the importance of adjustable elements and modular designs to reduce production complexity. The decision to partner with Pull & Bear on a capsule collection allowed for a larger scale test of sizing, though it underscored the months of work required to reconcile charts and ensure proper fit.

The current situation isn't about a lack of demand; it’s a reflection of ingrained industry biases and a reluctance to disrupt established systems. As Siriano concluded, “The customer hasn’t changed. Women of all sizes have always been part of the audience. When brands choose to serve them consistently, and not just when it’s trending, that’s when real progress happens.”