Fashion month's quiet shift: authenticity trumps blockbuster buzz

The frenzy of creative director debuts that defined last season has subsided, revealing a more considered, almost understated landscape in the Fall/Winter cycle. While the sheer volume of global fashion events has softened visibility, a select group of houses and personalities continue to wield significant influence, though the metrics tell a nuanced story of evolving priorities.

Earned media value sees a gentle dip

According to data from influencer marketing platform Lefty and brand agency Karla Otto, this season's earned media value (EMV) reached $755 million – a 14% decrease from Spring/Summer '26 and a slight 1.3% dip year-on-year. This isn’t a cause for alarm, but rather a reflection of a recalibration within the industry. The numbers, calculated as $1 per like across Instagram posts referencing on-schedule shows from influencers boasting over 10,000 followers, highlight a shift away from purely viral moments toward more sustained engagement.

Paris still reigns, but shows signs of contraction

Paris, predictably, remains the powerhouse, generating $403.6 million in EMV. However, even the City of Lights experienced a 19% decline from Spring/Summer '26 and a 20% year-on-year drop. Activity mirrored this contraction: 26,377 posts and 4,571 influencers represented a 7% and 8% decrease, respectively. The data underscores a more selective approach to content creation and engagement, a move away from the sheer volume of posts that characterized previous seasons.

Dior’s continued dominance, fueled by asian talent

Despite the overall dip, Dior continues to lead the pack, claiming the top spot across all four cities. The house’s Instagram performance alone generated a staggering $88 million in EMV, with Weibo contributing an additional $51.6 million, accounting for roughly 22% of the total. The driving force behind this success? As consistently observed, Asian talent plays a pivotal role. Thai actor and model Kornnaphat Sethratanapong (Orm) led the season with $21 million in EMV across 17 posts, followed by Thai-Chinese actor Sirilak Kwong ($15.5 million) and Blackpink’s Jisoo ($12.5 million). The fact that all three exclusively attended Dior showcases the potent impact of strategic talent partnerships.

Chanel's momentum, beyond the runway

Chanel secured second place, with Matthieu Blazy’s continued efforts visibly bolstering the house’s momentum. The brand generated $55.8 million in EMV, a remarkable 73% year-on-year increase. While Thai actor Norawit Titicharoenrak contributed $10.6 million and Blackpink’s Jennie drove $8.8 million, a significant portion of Chanel’s impact stemmed from activity beyond the show itself. The surge of editors and industry figures descending upon boutiques to secure pieces from the newly released spring ready-to-wear collection became a social media phenomenon in its own right, fueling conversations and driving organic engagement.

Milan steals the spotlight with a strong showing

Amidst the broader trends, Milan Fashion Week emerged as a standout, generating $260.2 million in EMV – a 6% increase from Spring/Summer '26 and a substantial 37% year-on-year jump. Gucci led the city with $54.5 million in EMV, significantly boosted by Thai actor and model Kanawut Traipipattanapong, who generated $6 million. The anticipation surrounding Demna’s official runway debut, following a teaser film and lookbook, clearly translated into robust front-row visibility, with appearances from Emily Ratajkowski ($1 million EMV), Demi Moore ($827,000 EMV), and Georgina Rodríguez ($4.6 million EMV).

The rise of storytelling and authenticity

Beyond the immediate flash of the runway, brands are increasingly prioritizing in-depth storytelling to extend the life and impact of their collections. Dior's interview with Bella Freud’s Fashion Neurosis, where Jonathan Anderson delved into the inspirations behind the collection, generated $938,000 in EMV alone. Chanel’s boutique frenzy also fueled anticipation, with editors sharing group chat exchanges on Substack and creators documenting their quest for coveted bags and shoes. The shift towards more considered content is undeniable, as observed by Hetty Mahlich, a fashion month veteran who made her first-ever in-boutique Chanel purchase this season—a pair of mint green embossed croc pumps.

Viral tv drives talent acquisition, apac ascendance

The influence of streaming television continues to shape front-row strategy. Hudson Williams, star of the breakout series Heated Rivalry, generated $1.1 million in EMV for Balenciaga, representing 30% of the brand’s total. Moreover, the dominance of talent from Thailand, South Korea, and the Philippines is undeniable, generating $317 million in EMV – 42% of fashion month’s total. This trend, evident in London and New York as well, underscores a significant shift in the industry’s focus, with brands prioritizing alignment and longevity over fleeting reach. As Anna Ross, global head of insight and trend at Karla Otto, notes,