Derby shoes rise again: a fresh start for footwear
The ballet flat’s reign in fashion is showing signs of ending. Derby shoes, with their classic silhouette, are making a strong comeback, signaling a shift in footwear trends.
The derby shoe makes a resurgence
From the 2010s popularity championed by figures like Alexa Chung and Kate Moss to recent runways at Ferragamo, JW Anderson, and Simone Rocha, the ballet flat enjoyed a considerable run. But after a brief period overshadowed by chunky sneakers and other trends, the Derby shoe is quietly asserting itself as a versatile alternative. French brand Repetto has been at the forefront of this revival, embraced by contemporary fashion icons such as Lily-Rose Depp and Kaia Gerber. Interestingly, before the 'ballet flat core' emerged, Repetto’s signature shoe was favored by Serge Gainsbourg, who sported their 'Zizi' style in the 1970s – a testament to the shoe's enduring appeal.
The Derby’s origins are debated, with some tracing its roots to the 14th Earl of Derby, while others link it to Russian military attire. Historically a popular sporting and hunting shoe, the Derby gained broader acceptance for everyday wear by the early 20th century. While sharing a similar shape to the ballet flat, the Derby offers greater practicality—suited for actual walking—and a distinctly more refined aesthetic than a loafer.
Jacquemus spearheaded the renewed interest with its spring 2024 collaboration with Repetto, while Lemaire subtly incorporated the lace-up style into its collections. Celine, under Michael Goffer’s direction, further amplified the trend, presenting a French take on American preppy style. Designer Emma François’ Sessùn label also offers a chic interpretation, the “Astaire” shoe named after the iconic dancer. The Row and Church's have also released their own versions. The white Derby, reminiscent of Gainsbourg's signature style, promises a fresh start for the season, embodying ease, lightness, and a touch of whimsy.
The Derby shoe proves remarkably adaptable, suitable for everything from navigating city streets to relaxing in a park. The resurgence isn’t just on runways; retailers like Proenza Schouler and Zara are stocking the style, reflecting its broad appeal. Forget fleeting trends; the Derby's return feels like a return to enduring style.
The enduring appeal of the Derby speaks to a desire for footwear that balances practicality with sophistication. It’s a welcome evolution, offering a stylish alternative to the often-fragile ballet flat, and a step away from the bulky footwear of recent years. This isn't merely a revival; it's a re-evaluation of classic design.
Prices range from $460 to $1,490.
The Derby is not just making a comeback; it is redefining what it means to be effortlessly stylish.