Marrakech meets milan: shanghai fashion week unveils a confused male wardrobe
Tight green sweaters, furry shoulder pads, and buckled kiltie loafers – a distinctly jarring combination – dominated the menswear presentations at Shushu/Tong’s Shanghai Fashion Week show this season. But don’t mistake this for a sweeping expansion into the male market; founder Liushu ‘Shushu’ Lei insisted backstage that it’s simply ‘boys wearing girls’ clothes,’ with the established menswear line remaining a modest operation.
A patchwork solution for a struggling sector
For Chinese brands, a few strategically placed menswear pieces represent a pragmatic solution to an increasingly challenging landscape. As male consumers increasingly bypass local designers in favor of established sportswear giants and global labels, the domestic menswear scene finds itself lagging significantly. ‘It’s a pretty difficult time for menswear,’ observes Laura Darmon, head of buying and business development at ENG Concept Store, ‘Well-known European brands like Our Legacy dominate, making it tougher for local labels to compete.’
The shift is palpable. Streetwear, once a potential avenue for menswear integration, has ceded ground to leisurewear and the ascendance of ‘gorpcore’ – evidenced by the dominance of Arcteryx, Salomon, and Lululemon, collectively dubbed the ‘three treasures’ by China’s burgeoning middle class.
Male consumers now possess a wider array of outerwear and outdoor brands, a development fueled by Zemira Xu, founder of Tube Showroom, who pivoted her business away from streetwear towards lifestyle-focused labels. Domestic sportswear brands, notably Anta (reporting record RMB 80.22 billion in revenue in 2025) and Bosideng, bolstered by the strategic hire of Kim Jones as Areal’s menswear designer, are reaping the benefits. Even Garçon by Garçon, a brand focusing on jackets and outerwear, is witnessing significant growth.
However, this tentative foray into menswear is proving discouraging for traditional lines. With a low return on investment, many Chinese brands have opted to refocus on womenswear or prioritize function, performance, and ease of wear. ‘Chinese men tend to lean towards professional sportswear brands for their everyday attire,’ explains Li Gong, founder of Shanghai label 8ON8. ‘Despite the increasing distinction between menswear and womenswear, this hasn't translated into sustained male consumer demand.’
As a result, 8ON8, initially conceived with a focus on tailoring, has recently shifted its production towards womenswear – primarily adapting sizing to better suit female bodies – a strategy mirrored by its strong overseas performance in Japan and South Korea. Brands like Shushu/Tong and Jacques Wei are similarly experimenting, yet experts remain skeptical about the long-term impact. ‘It’s still a trial,’ notes Xu, ‘Fashion editors and KOLs find some pieces, providing positive feedback, but the overall picture in China remains markedly different.’
Element, a multi-brand boutique stocking a range of international labels including Japanese designers like Khoki and outdoor brands, exemplifies a successful approach. Catering to a predominantly male clientele (60%) with a significant female presence (40%), the store emphasizes practicality, texture, fabric quality, and meticulous detailing. ‘We’ve invested significantly in understanding men’s lifestyles and consumption habits,’ says founder and buying director Benny Zhu.
Despite these successes, a lack of genuinely innovative menswear continues to hinder growth. Darmon highlights Untitlab and Structura as examples of labels poised to capitalize on the current void, offering bold designs and a clear point of view. Brands are also bolstering their sports offerings to compete, with 8ON8 expanding its collaborations with Asics and focusing on aesthetics alongside functionality. Ultimately, navigating the complexities of the Chinese market requires a nuanced understanding – acknowledging regional variations and adapting strategies accordingly, as cautioned by Zhu.
The verdict: a calculated pause, not a revolution
The cautious steps taken by brands like Shushu/Tong and Jacques Wei signal a temporary pause, not a fundamental shift. The market demands practicality and performance, leaving little room for purely experimental menswear. The future, it seems, lies in strategic collaborations and a deep understanding of the Chinese consumer, rather than a wholesale embrace of traditionally masculine aesthetics.