Fashion icon hugh devlin’s legacy lives on: new foundation promises legal support for emerging talent
The industry reels from the sudden loss of Hugh Devlin, a legal titan who shaped the careers of generations of designers, but his influence will endure thanks to a new initiative.
A champion of creativity, now a guardian
When Fashion super-lawyer Hugh Devlin died unexpectedly in 2023, the news sent shockwaves through the industry. Beyond the immediate grief for his wife, Sarah Polden, a vast network of creatives – from independent designers to global house directors – found themselves adrift without his invaluable guidance.
Devlin, a partner at Withers Worldwide and later operating independently through Delightfull, had spent over 30 years advising a who’s who of the luxury sector. His name was synonymous with sharp legal strategy and a fiercely protective approach to his clients. He didn't just bill; he invested in their success, often offering pro bono support to navigate the complex realities of launching and scaling creative businesses.
This month, Polden – alongside a coalition of loyal clients including Christopher and Tammy Kane, Anya Hindmarch, Charlotte Tilbury, and Sam McKnight – is launching The Hugh Devlin Foundation. This groundbreaking endeavor will assemble a team of high-caliber lawyers and accountants, all providing their expertise free of charge.
“Don’t sign it!” – a phrase reportedly uttered by Devlin himself – encapsulates his pragmatic, often blunt, approach. His sister, Tammy Kane, recalled, “Hugh was unique; a polymath capable of resolving legal complexities and sourcing bespoke solutions simultaneously. His dry wit could transform anguish into laughter.”
Legal fees, typically exceeding £500 per hour, present a significant hurdle for many emerging creatives, even as they grapple with the escalating complexities of wholesale, retail, e-commerce, and commercial showrooms. The foundation aims to dismantle this barrier, offering critical support precisely when it’s needed most.
Navigating the legal minefield
Vikram Menon, Sarah Barker, Ben Warren, and Graham Webster are among the foundation’s founding members. Webster, a former mentee at Withers, emphasized the need for accessible legal support: “Accessibility is a genuine concern. It pushes designers towards cheaper, riskier alternatives.” He cautioned against relying solely on AI-generated legal advice, highlighting the nuanced knowledge required in this specific field. “The core advice for young designers revolves around IP and brand protection, followed closely by commercial contract and employment matters. In our industry, personality and experience remain paramount.”
Suzi Sendama at Level Law warned, “Many high-profile names routinely wing it with contracts, fearing the financial implications of proper legal representation. The foundation is vital for providing this access—without the usual prohibitive costs.” She noted that fostering long-term client relationships, built on trust and ongoing insight, is key, not sporadic, legal engagements.
Devlin’s approach extended beyond mere legal advice; he acted as a trusted advisor, anticipating challenges and offering a 360-degree perspective on the market. “Creatives sometimes harbor apprehension about lawyers, fearing they won’t understand their world,” observed Tahir Basheer at Sheridans, a colleague and admirer of Devlin.
The foundation’s goal is to offer more than just legal counsel. Suzi Sendama elaborated, “It’s about translating the law into actionable strategies, providing the context and the fortitude to make informed decisions. A designer’s IP is their most valuable asset.” She cited instances where agents signed away crucial IP rights for minimal fees, leaving designers with little recourse. “Understanding your rights is fundamental,” Basheer adds. “A lack of this knowledge can lead to significant problems, from collaborative ventures gone wrong to complex negotiations with larger partners.