Bottega veneta cultivates a mushroom future: mycelium takes center stage
Luxury brand Bottega Veneta is betting big on a radical material shift: mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms. The move signals a significant evolution in sustainable luxury, and a potentially volatile path for biomaterials.
A risky gamble, rooted in innovation
Earlier this month, Kering’s Bottega Veneta unveiled a limited collection of small leather goods, replacing traditional bovine leather with Ephea, a mycelium-based alternative developed by Italian startup Sqim. The pieces are slated for the brand’s fall 2026 men’s collection, overseen by creative director Louise Trotter. This isn’t a fleeting trend; it’s a deliberate strategy within Kering’s broader sustainability goals.
Kering’s investment in Sqim, a Series A funding round in 2024, underscores the group’s commitment to exploring alternative materials. Balenciaga’s debut of an Ephea coat at its FW22 runway show proved the concept wasn't merely theoretical. However, Bottega Veneta’s adoption marks the first time the material has been integrated into a mainline collection.
The process itself is a protracted, intricate dance – demanding executive buy-in, convincing design teams, and often, years of dedicated research and development. Kering’s 10-year impact report, released last week, reveals a series of ambitious targets, driven by CEO Luca de Meo’s turnaround plan. By 2035, the group aims for 40% of its ready-to-wear line crafted from alternative materials, with a 30% reduction in leather intensity by 2028.
De Meo’s broader innovation agenda – targeting 20% of revenue from innovation by 2035 – reflects a strategic pivot. This includes a focus on material and process advancements, alongside new service models. The challenge lies in scaling these innovations effectively.
But the mycelium sector has experienced dramatic setbacks. Bolt Threads, a pioneer in Mylo leather, ceased production in 2023 after failing to secure sufficient funding. Mycoworks, another prominent player, shuttered its manufacturing plant in 2025 and shifted to processing third-party mycelium. Even Natural Fiber Welding narrowly avoided bankruptcy. This turbulent history highlights the inherent risks involved in bringing these materials from lab to luxury.
Despite these hurdles, Bottega Veneta’s Woven Mycelium collection represents a measured step forward. Creative director Trotter emphasizes the importance of treating the material with the same meticulous care and artisanal tradition as conventional leather, painstakingly recreating the iconic intrecciato weave. “True to Bottega Veneta values, we explored the balance between material innovation and artisanal tradition,” she stated. The collection—featuring six styles in three colors—demonstrates a commitment to both sustainability and the brand’s established heritage.
“Beyond impact reduction, the Woven Mycelium range allows us to explore new textures and aesthetics, while maintaining the highest standards of quality, ensuring that sustainability reinforces, rather than compromises, the longevity and desirability of our products,” notes Yoann Regent, Bottega Veneta’s head of sustainability. The long-term goal is to drive systemic change within the industry, accelerating adoption and supporting supplier ecosystems. This isn't just about a single collection; it’s about cultivating a new future for luxury.