Kenzo's radical reboot: ceo coupé bets on 'humble clothes' and a future beyond the runway

Charlotte Coupé, recently appointed CEO of Kenzo, is embarking on a bold strategy to revitalize the storied fashion house, moving decisively away from traditional runway shows and embracing a more accessible, culturally-driven approach.

A fresh chapter for a luxury legacy

Coupé’s assessment is strikingly candid: Kenzo requires a ‘reconnection’ – to its founder’s spirit, its current Business realities, and its clientele. She’s not chasing fleeting trends, but a sustainable, ambitious vision rooted in the brand’s unique history. ‘The dream has to be ambitious, but it has to be realistic,’ she stated, signaling a departure from the often-overstated pronouncements of the luxury sector.

The initial move is a week-long activation at Place des Victoires in Paris, a deliberate shift away from the exclusive, industry-only events that have defined Kenzo’s presentation in recent years. This ‘Kenzo Market’ will feature a pop-up, a café, a Japanese konbini, and a T-shirt bar – a deliberate attempt to democratize the brand experience and showcase its diverse offerings to a wider audience.

Rejecting the runway, embracing authenticity

Coupé’s decision to forgo a traditional runway show for the Spring/Summer 2027 collection is a significant statement. ‘If we want to exist in fashion week with purpose, with cultural relevancy, it’s probably better to spend the money differently,’ she explained, indicating a prioritization of tangible engagement over fleeting spectacle.

Crucially, Coupé’s vision is underpinned by a surprisingly humble perspective on Kenzo’s position within LVMH. ‘We have humble clothes, we have humble products,’ she admitted. ‘We’re not a luxury house.’ This counterpoint to the opulent image typically associated with LVMH brands is, she argues, a core differentiator – a source of competitive advantage.

Founded by Kenzo Takada in 1970, the house began as a celebration of color and exuberance, a deliberate antidote to the perceived froideur of Parisian fashion. Takada’s legacy of Japanese authorship, Parisian setting, and open spirit remains central to Coupé’s strategy, with a focus on bridging Nigo’s streetwear influences with the brand’s established code.

The planned product expansion – particularly in denim and outerwear – reflects Coupé’s belief in broadening Kenzo’s appeal. She’s keen to leverage its existing brand awareness, built on iconic pieces like the tiger sweatshirt, to drive consistent sales across multiple categories. “You cannot be niche, you cannot only speak to a very small portion of client,” she insists, emphasizing the need for a wider audience reach.

Coupé’s career trajectory – from press relations at Issey Miyake to merchandising roles at Louis Vuitton – has instilled in her a deep understanding of brand storytelling and a strategic mindset. Her past experience, coupled with her keen eye for cultural trends, positions her to navigate the complexities of repositioning a beloved, yet historically somewhat understated, luxury brand. She concludes: ‘Let’s see how long the group lets me play and have fun with the people at Kenzo.’